Kako ljetovati za manje od 1000 kn/Summer vacation in Croatia for less than 160$

First of all – please sign up on my landing page so you can get an early bird bonus perks in crowdfunding campaign for my book – Baring Epitaph – Story from Pacific Crest Trail

Disclaimer – ovaj članak ne služi propagiranju određenog mjesta u maniri web stranica koje ti daju kartu “skrivenog dragulja” s GPS koordinatama. Naprotiv, ovaj članak služi da inspirira čitatelja da se sam odvaži krenuti u potragu za prirodom i ljepotom. Stoga, ako i prepoznate mjesto s fotografija nemojte se zamarati objasniti mi gdje je fotografirano.

Moram priznati da nikada nisam bio pobornik pohlepnog, kapitalističkog poimanja svijeta. Toga je svijeta možda ponajbolji primjer današnji model masovnog turizma kakvog imamo prilike vidjeti na obalama Hrvatske strane Jadranske obale. Stotine tisuća automobila, gužve, smrad, smeće, bezobrazne cijene, visoki porezi, šareni pazari, bahati ugostitelji, sumnjiva ponuda, prekrcane plaže i još hrpetine toga. Sve je to najčešći model turizma i da vam budem iskren – gadi mi se!

I must admit – I have never been a supporter of the greedy, capitalist philosophy. Probably the best example of today’s model of mass tourism is  one that we have the opportunity to see on the coasts of Croatia. Hundreds of thousands of cars, crowds, smells, garbage, unreasonable prices, high taxes, cheap markets, arrogant restaurateurs, suspicious bargaining, shingled beaches and more. That is the most common model of tourism and to be honest – I am disgust with it!

Zbog svega navedenog pala je odluka da ću svoje ljetovanje sa sinom provesti podalje od masovnog turizma, ne pogodujući nikome osim nama dvojici i divnoj prirodi kojom smo bili okruženi. Da bi mi to uspjelo odlučio sam da idemo na jedan od udaljenih otoka gdje masovni turizam još nije došao. U pitanju je bilo 8 dana s putovanjem, odnosno 6 dana za čistu uživanciju. Kupio sam hrane za 250 kn, autobusne povratne karte za nas koštale 300, a brodske 200. Dakle, u startu sam potrošio 750 kn, odnosno 100 eura.

Because of all I mentioned, I decided to spend my vacation with my son away from mass tourism, pleasing only the two of us and the wonderful nature we were surrounded. To make this happen, I decided to go on one of the remote islands where mass tourism has not yet come. We had 8 days, 2 of which we traveled, or 6 days for pure enjoyment. I bought food for 250 kn  (40$), two way bus tickets cost us 300 (48$), and ship 200 (32$). So, in the beginning I spent 750 kn, or 100 euros (120$).

Naravno, na otok smo došli bez automobila. Zbog toga smo bili malo ograničeni, jer šestogodišnjaci nisu vični hodanju na duge pruge, ali i s tom okolnosti smo vidjeli mnogo toga i uživali u moru, zvuku zrikavaca, milionima zvijezda ponad naših glava, toplini sunca, zalascima i izlascima, te malim dnevnim ritualima i užicima.

Of course, we came to the island without a car. Because of that, we were a little constrained, because the six-year-olds are not eager to walk much, but even with that circumstance we saw a lot of things and enjoyed the sea, the sound of crickets, millions of stars above our heads, the heat of the sun, the sunsets, the sunrises and small daily rituals and pleasures.

Kamping mjesta smo birali po principu gdje nas zatekne noć. To je legalno. Naravno, uvijek sam gledao da nas noć zatekne na pomno odabranom mjestu: ravnom, dobro dreniranom za slučaj kiše, sigurnom i lijepom. Ujutro bismo, a odmah po buđenju, pospremili šator i sve stvari u ruksak, doručkovali smo, a potom bismo krenuli u novu avanturu. Gdje ćemo se kupati, što ćemo jesti, što ćemo raditi i ostale odluke donosio je sin, a kada bismo trebali prenoćiti imao je nekoliko opcija od kojih je odabrao koja mu se najviše sviđa.

We chose the camping sites according to the principle – we camp where night catch us. That’s legal here in Croatia (but camping outside private campsites is not – how stupid is that?). Of course, I’ve always been watching the night to catch us in a carefully selected place: flat, well drained in case of a rain, safe and beautiful. In the morning, and immediately after the awakening, we pitched down a tent and put all the stuff in the backpack, we were having breakfast, and then we were going to a new adventure. Where we are going to swim, what to eat, what we will do and other decisions were made by my son, and when we had to overnight, he had several options from which he chose the one he liked most.

Boraveći na otoku dnevno sam kupovao sladoled, pivo, kruh i ponešto slatkiša, a jednom smo čak otišli i na pizzu u restoran. Tih sam dana potrošio još svega 250 kn, ali niti u jednom nam trenutku nije ničega nedostajalo. Štoviše, doma sam se vratio s još hrane u ruksaku.

Every day on the island we bought ice cream, beer, bread and some candy, and once we even went to a pizza at the restaurant. I spent only 250 kn (40$) in six days. We did not miss anything. Moreover, I have come back home with some food in the backpack.

Nažalost, mjesta koja smo posjećivali nam nisu uvijek ostala u lijepom sjećanju. Koliko god otok bio zabačen ipak ima ljudi i dobar dio tih ljudi voli boraviti podalje od gužve. Naravno, kada si podalje od civilizacije nuždu moraš vršiti u prirodi. No, uočili smo da ljudi to čine na najodvratniji mogući način. Da budem plastičan – pokenjaju se, ostave sve za sobom kao da su pokakali cvijeće, a wc papir ostave uokolo. Na određenim djelovima mi je bilo mučno kretati se šumom koliko je bilo izmeta i wc papira. Ruđer i ja smo svaki puta iskopali što dublju rupu, obavili nuždu, izmet zakopali, a wc papir UZELI sa sobom. Bacili smo ga u prvu kantu za smeće koju smo pronašli, noseći ga u zip lock vrećici. Zaprepašćujuće je koliko su ljudi ekološki neosvješteni. No, neće to dovijeka trajati. Ta evo, klimatske promjene nam kucaju na vrata. Inkasator ovlašten od Majke Prirode je došao naplatiti godine opasnog življenja. Netko će reći – pa, nije isto pokakati se i baciti auto u more. Nije, ali znate onu biblijsku – tko je vjeran u malome… Upravo se radi o sitnicama, jer ako ne bacaš wc papir i brineš za boravak drugoga u prirodi nakon tebe, ta koliko ćeš biti svjesniji kada se radi o konkretnim stvarima!!!!

Unfortunately, the places we visited did not always remain in a beautiful memory. Although island is remote, there are still people there, and a good deal of people like to stay away from the crowd. Of course, when you are away from the civilization you have to poo in nature. However, we have found that people do this in the most digusting way possible. Let me be clear – they shit, they leave everything as if they were shitting flowers, and the toilet paper left around. At certain points, it was painful for me to move around the woods as much as the feces and the toilet paper were around. Ruđer and I each time excavated deep hole, poop, bury the poo, and took the toilet paper with us. We threw it in the first bin of trash we found, carrying it in a zip lock bag. It is astonishing how many people are ecologically unaware. But it will not last forever. Here, climate change knocks at the door. The caretaker authorized by Mother Nature came to charge years of dangerous living. Someone will say – well, it’s not the same thing to poo or to throw a car into the sea. It is not, but you know the Bible saying – who is loyal in a little things… It’s about the little things, because if you do not throw away toilet paper and if you worry about another person wellbeing in nature after you, how much more will you be aware of things when it comes to big stuff!!!

Što se tiče hrane jeli smo suho i kuhano. Za doručak bismo najčešće jeli sir, pancetu, srdele ili sendviče. Za ručak bismo kuhali gotovu tjesteninu ili gulaš,  a za večeru juhu. Dan bismo prošarali sladoledom, pivom, slatkišima – ovisi već kada bismo se dovukli do lokalne trgovine. Kuhanje večere je predstavljalo najveće zadovoljstvo, a u kojoj je Ruđer i sam sudjelovao.

Regarding food, we ate dry and boiled. For breakfast we would usually eat cheese, bacon, sardines or sandwiches. For lunch we would have cooked ready pasta or goulash, and for supper ramen. We would afford ourself ice cream, beer, sweets. Dinner cooking was the greatest pleasure for Rudjer.

Ljudima se teško odlučiti za ovakva putovanja, a možda im je najveća mentalna barijera osjećaj da će im nedostajati stvari. Odnosno da će im se ljetovanje pretvoriti u pakao oskudice i nevolje. Da razbijem famu oko odlaska na kamping ljetovanje s djetetom možda je najbolje da napišem i svu opremu koju sam nosio:

It is difficult for people to decide for such a travel, and perhaps their biggest mental barrier is that they will miss things. They fear that their vacation would turn into hell of scarcity and distress. To break prejudices around going camping with a child may be best to write down all the equipment I had:

1. Ruksak/Backpack: Osprey Athmos 65 l
2. Šator/Tent: Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2
3. Vreće za spavanje/Sleeping bags: REI Igneo and Decathlon low budget bag
4. Podlošci/Mats: Thermarest self inflating/Decathlon low budget non inflating
5. Roba/Clothes: kabanica/rain poncho – 2, duge hlače/pants, t-shirts – 3 each, pidžame/sleepwear, kupaće gaće/swimming trunks – 2, čarape/socks – 2 pairs each, pernata jakna/puffy – 2, tenisice/sneakers, japanke/thongs, ručnici/towels – 3
6. Prva pomoć/Medical kit: gaza/gauze, flasteri/plaster, hydrogen, kantarion oil, microbact creme, bademova krema/almond creme
7. Osobna higijena/personal hygiene: pasta za zube/tooth paste, četkice/toothbrush, gel za tuširanje/shower gel, pjena za brijanje/shaving foam, britvica/razor, deodorant, dezinficijens za ruke/hand sanitizer
8. Kuhinja/kitchen: Lončić/pot, kuhalo/stove, plin/gas, tri žlice/three spoons, nož/knife, upaljač/lighter, čaša/tin glass
9. Ostalo/other: svjetlila/lights: 3, punjač/power bank, usb kabel/usb cord, gopro, batteries, map, krema za sunčanje/sunblock, naočale za plivanje/swimming googles, strip za djecu/comic, sprej protiv kukaca/bug repellent

Na kraju je došao i kraj naše male avanture. Bilo je prekrasno, a ono što je dječak naučio i vidio je neprocjenjivo. No, nisam niti je ostao zakinut. I moja se duša napunjena vratila u grad. Posljednju smo noć proveli spavajući pod vedrim nebom. Zavaljeni u vreće za spavanje gledali smo zvjezdano nebo i razgovarali o velikom i moćnom svemiru. Desetke pitanja je imala za pitati mala glava dok su se u uvali polagano njihali jarboli usidrenih jedrilica. “Tata, kada ćemo ponovno kampirati?”, upitao me već pomalo sanjiv. “Uskoro, prijatelju, uskoro!”

Finally came the end of our little adventure. It was wonderful, and what the boy learned and saw was priceless. But it was the same for me. My soul was full. Last night we spent sleeping under the sky. Laying down in sleeping bags we watched the starry sky and talked about the great and powerful universe. There were dozens of questions to ask for a little head while the moors of sailing boats were slowly floating in the cove. “Dad, when are we going to camp again?” He asked me. “Soon, my friend, soon!”